Eurovan Update

Has anyone experienced a delayed jerk when shifting from Park to Reverse?  After getting multiple professional opinions most diagnosis pointed to the transmission/engine mount. I replaced all the mounts on my 2002 Weekender yet the jerk has not gone away.   I recent went underneath the van and checked the pendulum mount while shifting and I still see a big enough sway which caused the engine to rock back and forth about1/2"-1" movement.  Is this normal ?  My assumption is that the aftermarket pendulum I put in the van has cheap rubber which does not and does not work as intended.   I regret not using the Febi bushing and re-bushing the the mount instead.  Any advice or comments is appreciated. 

Phil,Good notes. You are only partially correct that the 7D0959053 is not for EuroVan.  7D0959053 CAN be used... you miss the Anti-slip (ASR or ESP).Several years ago I found a Russian gentleman documenting repair. Might have been VW Vortex. I attached the .pdf I created.Ch

Duane and allThanks very much for your and others replies, as well as the research time.  After many days of rabbit trails, I found that part 7d0 959 653 is not for Eurovans WITH ESP. Only a few sites (in Germany I believe) mention “w/o ABS or w/o ESP” I don’t recall which. This means part 7d0 959 653 only fits NON-ABS Eurovans such as Rialta’s. The 7d0 959 654 on the other hand is the only number fitting ABS fitted Eurovans. If you contact any sites with the ..653 number they insist the ..653 part is listed as correct, but it’s definitely not.  The ..653s are easy to come by even at “reasonable” prices, that’s great news for Rialta owners. Also as an aside, anyone replacing the …654 number clockspring must go through a relearn process (TWICE) with a VCDS or other software, (in addition to clearing the code).  if not the CEL will not clear or immediately comes back.  Also the code/ CEL appears not to zero out until you exit the software and restart. - I’m not sure if that applies to the …653 as it doesn't have the Steering Angle Sensor required for ABS, but I suspect it is not necessary. If someone needs this sequence and the numbers needed to input the VCDS  I have these. By the way, both the A13 and A15 version of the ..654 are useable, but both will require the reset- which if the ignition is cycled with the Clockspring out will supposedly cause the same required resetting too. I do wonder if some other clockspring could be modified to fit, but I’m not going there. That’s way over my pay grade and I’m hoping to resolve this without that rabbit hole. The clockspring isn’t too difficult to take apart in the first level, (the part with the wire ribbon) however there are some surprises that are unexpected with a little internal gear- be sure to carefully prepositions the yellow dot in the window and mark all positions precisely including the copper wheel and getting the wires released.  In the end I found the internals seemed bullet proof, including the ribbon, and I found little that could be corrected internally- I never could get to the area where the ribbon connectors were to release, but they looked invincible, except obviously something in there isn’t.As to RECALLs, none listed currently - I didn’t know they only show the past 15 years, but I’ve checked it periodically over the years by VIN and the only I recall was one for the coils over 15 years ago because it’s not listed anymore, but Spenser, thanks for that suggestion.Carl: 7D0959654 - I have notes on how to repair. Typical issue is worn copper traces, replaced with small wire. I’d be interested in any details on your comments on “copper traces” and “ small wire replaced.”  I ask because although I just purchased the only 7d0 959 654 I could find in the US or Europe, I now have 2 broken ones- my original, (ABS ISSUE), my replacement I bought many years ago in diagnosing an airbag problem, never used but loaned out a few times, but now seems to have multiple issues. I had to fork out $936 for this one (I believe the last ran me $2-300 and in the end proved the clockspring was the issue, but traded problems as the ESP in it was fowl. I think I have the right methods for handling them.Would the copper traces be the spinning copper disk leaving traces on the light sensors? If so, could cleaning that area somehow resolve that? A bit tricky even with disassembly of the “clockspring chamber” perhaps pressurized air or a solvent like MAF Cleaner.Again Thanks to all for the generous responses.  I’ll let you know when I get the “new” clockspring in.As an aside- at the insistence of our two sons, we are selling our Eurovan (my “mistress”) and purchasing a Metris with all the safety features (lane assist, etc).  I doubt it can come up to my Silver Shadow’s level, but it’s as close as we could find. Hopefully we can find a happy buyer.  Phil B 2003 EV WE 328 kmi

7D0959653 - w/o Steering Angle Sensor 1H0959653E - reported in 2021 as alternative to 053 above, from Mk3 Golf/Jetta/Passat 7D0959654 - I have notes on how to repair. Typical issue is worn copper traces, replaced with small wire. Do need to recalibrate the steering angle sensor...

I went through this a couple years ago and ended up buying used.  I got lucky.  The guy had not pulled the part yet and I specified how to protect it while removing.There are two specified for the 2003 but only one version has the steering angle sensor.   According to my notes these part numbers are: Part #: VAG-7D0959654  with steering angle sensor Part #: VAG-7D0959653  without The part without is quite easy to find.  FCP Euro has one.   Without steering angle sensor xxxxxxxx53xxxx54 seems unavailable new and expensive used.

On Sun, Mar 19, 2023 at 02:58 PM, Phil wrote: I have a clockspring which is no longer available I did a quick search on ebay for 7D0959653 and found a few hits for new ones.  I'm not 100% sure it's the right one, but VW says that number fits all Eurovans 99-03.  As expected, there are some really cheap ones from China, but some that look like new VW parts for $100-200.-- Duane05HD Rialta220K Miles

Maybe I'm misremembering but wasn't there a VW recall or service bulletin on eurovan clocksprings?

I have a clockspring which is no longer available and the used market is absurd (especially with an untested -( basically unwarranted) part.  I’ve been down this path already.I did find what appears to be a good repair service, however it’s in Germany and will not ship outside Germany “no matter what.”Does anyone have any leads as to a repair service for clockspring (AKA Steering Angle Sensor)?I’ve taken one apart but it contains more circuitry than I can diagnose, it’s much beyond a wire connector or ribbon issue.any leads would be helpful. That or if there is a service to handle the “mailing out of Germany issue.”Thanks Phil B 2003 EV Weekender 328kmi

I would like to replace the radiator on my 95 EV, but have troubleremoving it.I have the radiator assembly in the forward service position but I cannotsee any way to remove the 4 plastic hinges (part number 701121565) fromthe radiator in a non destructive manner. I know that I have to drive thepins out, but even with the pin out the upper hinges won't come aparteasily. Is there a recommended tool to squeeze the retainer lips, so thehinges come apart there?The bottom hinges are much less accessible, though. The one on thepassenger side seems to be completely inaccessible (behind the plasticradiator shroud, can't even drive the pin out there).Any suggestions on how this is supposed to be done? Thanks.

We will deliver anywhere between Texas and Michigan. Van is available in early May, 2023.We are taking our last trip in our well-maintained 2002 full EuroVan Camper, so we are now selling our great camper van.We are retired & non-smokers (clean van).  The odometer reads about 185,000 miles.All camping items in the van work: The three-way fridge works in all modes (AC, DC, GAS). The stove & sink both work.The AC works fine & the transmission shifts smoothly; we have frequently changed all the engine fluids & filters including the transmission fluid and filter. This is important with EuroVans.We have never used the furnace; but it did work when we purchased the van.Replaced during our ownership:Complete exhaust, Engine water pump, Rebuilt AC compressor, Brake pads,  New tires: about 10,000 miles ago.Extras include:EuroVan Side Awning,Audi Wheels,Carpeting,Seat covers,Many camping/kitchen items,ScanGuage (important for monitoring the engine),Auxiliary Transmission fluid cooler, (Important for keeping the transmission fluid from overheating),Transmission fluid dipstick,External 110 V power cord,Tire jack,Both the EuroVan's owner's manual and the Winnebago owner's manual,Van Cover (to be mailed when I arrive in Michigan)On the 20-year-old vehicle there are a few items that don't work quite so well:The rear clothes closet sliding door does not latch well,One of the pop-top roof lights does not work,There are a few minor scrapes and scratches around the interior and exterior of the van,Some discolored streeks on the pop top canvas.Slight crack in left rear taillight.Driver's seat right armrest has come off, I do have the armrest though.Malcolm. Phone +1 231-881-4591Mwstebbins@...Photos can be viewed here:Eurovan For Sale Eurovan For Sale Shared with Dropbox ======================

Hey A,In our ‘95 the same pipe exhaust manifold cracked due to the system down stream not being adequately supported. As well as having 275K mules on it. We ended up searching “Samba” to find a used one that was in good shape and made sure the entire system was supported as designed. Best of luck.Craig 95 Euro I5 5 spd manual 308K

Hi friends, I’ve recently discovered an exhaust leak that appears to be coming from the dual flex pipe under the hood. I noticed it because whenever I would run the blower while idling, I would get inundated with fumes in the cabin. I visited a local exhaust shop and they quoted me $1500 to replace that section with generic flex pipes due to the complexity of the job (unbolting, tack weld, fit, remove, finish weld, re-fit). He suggested looking for NOS if possible. Two primary questions: 1) What have you fine EV owners done in the past? 2) Beyond finding the flex pipe itself - what other supporting parts would you suggest? (bolts, nuts, hangars, etc)Best,A

I took a piece of wire and pushed it in the sensor hole inside the orb. Just did this a couple times. So far so good. There wasn’t really any better way (I could come up with) since the sensor is inside the orb and it’s a small hole. Thought it would knock off anything making it act weird.  I used the same wire that I had just used to jump across the sensor terminals. 

@dustinwhiteCurious to know your method to clean it. I'm going to try on my 1993 as well.

Hang onto those other sensors.  Sometimes having one to swap out can help with troubleshooting.   There are usually tests to confirm function. 

On Thu, Feb 23, 2023 at 01:10 AM, rhodney wrote: Wish I had an owners manual I've scanned a couple of them, one for AES and one for AXK.  You can find them at http://www.rialtainfo.com/EV/VW_1997EV.pdf and http://www.rialtainfo.com/EV/VW_2003EV.pdf-- Duane05HD Rialta220K Miles

Thanks to all (especially Duane) for enlightening me about the red light issue. Gotta say I feel a bit ‘dumb’ to have not checked the coolant level straight away. Had no clue that the light was for monitoring coolant level. Wish I had an owners manual but bought the EV used and seller had lost it. So thanks again and Happy motoring out there! 🙂

I tried to "clean" the sensor with some wire and when I refilled the orb the light didn't come on.Going to try to suction out the excess and see if the light comes back on -- the sensor being dirty and not completely broken would explain it being intermittent at first and constant now. Also try the continuity with both variables. I hadn't thought to check it that way.Just knowing that the problem is in the orb sensor and not the overall temperature is good news. I was always fearful that the temp gauge was misreading -- which is why we replaced all the other sensors when we were doing other work.

Good tip on the cluster.  I believe that my cluster has bad connections also.  When I was working underneath the dash there, my cluster display went crazy due to minor movement of the harness cable.  I was eventually able to fiddle with it (was on the road) and get everything showing correctly again without repair but I believe it is a weak spot that wants attention.  I guess that an easy way to check the coolant level sensor would be to pull the connector and check continuity across the pins on the orb while full and then drain, siphon or suction out (turkey baster/syringe) enough fluid to make it low and check again.  If continuity is different from full to say half full, then it's not the orb/sensor.Oh - now I read that you did test it.  Good.  Easier to fix than the cluster.  I would definitely try cleaning everything first.

Anything else weird going on with your gauge cluster? Similar issue with ours and it was loose solder joints on the board actually.